Wednesday, August 15, 2012

India: Shock and Awe


Now that I’ve been home for a week and have settled back into my routine I can reflect on what I had experienced in India.  I will be the first to tell you that I was less than thrilled with the idea of traveling there.  Those who know me well and even those who don’t can confirm that sentiment.  India had never been a country on my “must see” list. I had heard various stories both good and bad as far as what to expect.  “Bring toilet paper” was the most common piece of advice I was given:  Advice that I gratefully followed. I tried to keep an open mind but kept my expectations very low.  My anxiety level rose higher and higher as the day of departure grew closer.  Thoughts of a 19 hour flight, 10 days away from my daughter and family, 10 days of insufferable heat and humidity, and 10 days of spicy food all contributed to my angst.
Upon arrival in Chennai my expectations had already been exceeded.  The flight, though long, was fantastic.  Kudos to the Qatar Airways crew for making us all feel comfortable. The airport was quiet and simple.  We were soon greeted by Sundari, our host from the National Management School. As we exited the terminal, much like in New York, families and cab drivers waited to greet new arrivals.  I was told that the minute we walked outside it would be hot and smelly.  Much to my surprise neither of these tales was true.  Yes it was warm and an odor was present but not more so than any big city here in the U.S.  I was pleased. We boarded our air conditioned “Incredible India!” bus and moved on to the Raj Park Hotel.  Our accommodations were more than adequate complete with an Indian style bidet.  Again, I was pleased.
TRAFFIC!!!!!! Wow!  It’s difficult to not swallow your heart when in the midst of the chaos Indian’s call daily life.  Whether on foot, by bus, passenger vehicle, motorcycle or auto rickshaw traveling around town is a harrowing experience.  I’m convinced that the lanes marked on roads and highways are simply there for decoration as they are not used to control the flow of traffic in anyway.  In many ways driving in India is much like playing a videogame.  You choose your mode of transportation and then the race begins.  You’re met with obstacles in the road like, livestock, dogs, people and stalled vehicles.  Obeying traffic laws and law enforcement are optional.  Choosing not to follow does not result in penalties of any kind except perhaps maybe loss of life.  The most important thing to remember, however, is to HONK YOUR HORN INCESSANTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Beep, beep, beep, beep.
Our week in Chennai was filled with trips to local corporations, Cognizant, Sankara Nethralaya, L & T and Nissan Renault.  All of these companies were fascinating in their own right but the one that struck me most was Sankara Nethralaya, a privately funded non-profit eye hospital that provides eye care and surgeries free of charge to those who need it.  We were shown a video of a mobile operating room that travels to rural areas to perform eye surgeries for the poor.  It was unlike anything I had ever seen.  They are definitely an organization that cares about the people of India and is most certainly deserving of donations.  I highly recommend visiting their website to learn more about what they do.
While the other corporations prove to be quite lucrative for their shareholders they fail to accomplish what Sankara Nethralaya succeeds at every day, corporate social responsibility.  I was disappointed to see an inadequate level of “CSR” among the larger corporations. A common thread that I hope will improve over time.
In addition to visiting local corporations we had the privilege of not just interacting with but also befriending students and management from the National Management School.  They taught us much about Indian culture and customs and treated us as though we were friends not visitors.  From negotiating prices with rickshaw drivers to explaining what food was placed on a banana leaf in front of us, they devoted their time to make sure that we were comfortable and were getting as much as possible out of our trip. We were lucky to have them as our hosts. A special thank you to Sankaran, Sundari and the NMS students for making us feel welcome.
After five days in Chennai our journey took us to Delhi, a larger city with much more traffic which I didn’t think was possible. There we met with Airtel, a very young and lively telecom company that was very open to our inquiring minds and willing to answer any question we had.  While in Delhi we visited several Moghul tombs and a Hindu temple, the beauty of which rivals the Taj Mahal.  For the first time in my life I witnessed a snake charmer and his cobra and monkeys wearing makeup dressed in costume.  It was quite the site to see. Of course one cannot travel to India and not see the Taj Mahal and so after a four and a half hour bus ride we were able to visit this magnificent structure.
Our last day in India included my favorite activity, shopping! We were taken to a local bazaar where vendors sold anything from woodcrafts, silks, toys to furniture and stone crafts.  I can guarantee that many of us came home with much heavier suitcases.
It is nearly impossible to talk about India and not mention the poverty and lack of sanitary conditions present everywhere.  As a mother I found it extremely difficult to watch children, babies, whole families living on the street; literally.  Watching babies taking care of babies, eating from the trash left on the side of the road and sleeping next to raw sewage was unbearable.  As a human being I find it unconscionable that the Indian government has allowed this to happen.
India and its people have had a profound effect on me. My apprehensions prior to our arrival were erased the moment we set foot in Chennai.  The overload on my senses and the pandemonium that exists in daily life was quelled by the overwhelming calm of the Indian people.  I have learned to see the diamond in the rough and have most certainly come home with a new appreciation for the life I live and am grateful for all that I have.  I will forever be changed by this experience and can only hope to pass on what I’ve learned to others.

Thursday, August 9, 2012

India, a land of stark contrast and juxtaposition

Now that we've all returned safely from India, I felt it was appropriate to reflect on this tremendous experience. Sure, we were supposed to blog during the trip, but the chaos & packed schedule made it quite difficult.

The first thing I noticed as we stepped out of the airport in Chennai at 4:30 AM was the number of people waiting around in the early morning. Literally hundreds of people standing there to welcome their friends and family, even when they should have been asleep. This was just the beginning, as the rest of trip we could see people everywhere moving in seemingly every direction. Traffic was never at a standstill. It was more like a stream flowing around stationary objects, whether they be broken down cars, 'optional' traffic lights, or cows sleeping in the road. It seemed everyone had a place to go, something to do, but had to battle through the chaos to reach their destination.

Being at street level, you could really see the dramatic differences between 'modern india' and 'not-so-modern' india. On our site visits, we were almost always at a very nice location: big beautiful corporate buildings similar to anything in the US. At my group's site visit, Larsen and Toubro (L&T) had a spectacular campus with green manicured lawns and impressive architecture. Right outside the property though, you would see a lack of sidewalks, piles of rubble, people sleeping on the ground, and stray dogs. It never made me feel unsafe though, it was just the reality of being in Chennai. Being in a very different society certainly made you think about the concepts of collectivism versus individualism a bit more. The interesting juxtaposition was apparent throughout the entire trip.

At L&T, it was quickly clear that they were similar to a General Electric for India. They had a lot of work related to engineering, infrastructure, defense, financial services, and many others. They seemed to really love the term "imagineering," which us Americans found amusing because we associated it with Disney. During our Q&A session, I asked about corruption in India, which seemed of particular relevance to a business in the infrastructure sector (which was clearly lacking). The speaker acknowledged the problem, but said L&T differentiated itself by being the company to go to when a politician actually wants a project to get done. They charge a premium for their services, but the speaker said they avoided corruption issues by doing so. The infrastructure appeared far worse in Chennai, where there didn't seem to be a real highway anywhere. Ironically, we were in Chennai when half of India lost power (~1/10 of the population of the earth) and we didn't lose power. A few days later we were up in Delhi, which had much more developed roadways, but evidently an overtaxed electrical grid.

I'm sure plenty of people will want to describe the trip to the Taj Mahal in greater detail, so I will defer to them. Needless to say, it was absolutely spectacular and a really amazing experience. Also, I invite my colleagues to write about our harrowing bus journey down the highway, or insanely fun rickshaw rides. I would also like to thank everyone who helped out on the journey, including the NMS people, site visit companies, Don/Ray/Sanjay, and our Indian classmates. I really treasure the experiences we had in this truly diverse, crazy, busy, chaotic, and fun country.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

An Incredible Experience in India

So we are on the last leg of our trip in India.  While it may have been a common theme to wonder 'why India?', I think we have all found our answers.  The culture here was both something to adapt to and an experience to learn from.  The caste system was evident, the food was a contrast from what I am familiar with, and the dynamics of business relations shed some light on why India is a global economic powerhouse now and especially in the days ahead.

The site visits were, in my opinion, the crown jewels of the journey.  We gained enlightening insight into the presence of the IT, healthcare, automotive, construction, and telecom industries.  Given the population density we were able to see first-hand the impact of a workforce that co-mingles high-powered executives with worldwide reach in conjunction with lower level positions that earn bare-bone wages relative to US standards.  Through our travels it was easy to see a broad spectrum of American companies that have already penetrated the region and why they will continue to do so.  Local specialized knowledge and labor costs are amongst the resources that potentially rank India second to none when it comes to efficient operations.

What can I say about witnessing the magic of the Taj Mahal?  Well, you have to see it to believe why this wonder of the world so deeply signifies a 'teardrop on the face of eternity'.

Regarding the cohort, Professor Petrevu, Program Director Don Purdy, Provost Ray Bromley, and our hosts and students from NMS it was truly an honor to spend this time in such tight quarters.  You really missed out if you didn't take advantage of tapping into what each and every individual has to share, both professionally and personally.

A special 'thanks!!' to Rakesh ('Rocketman'), Gautam, Apurba, Alok, Harshal, Sanjay, and Dr. Bromley for the local knowledge and guidance.  Without them, the rickshaw drivers would have run out of gas getting the 'night crews' to our desired destinations.  As for the 'night crews'...well...what happens in India stays in India.  Although, for a few rupees anything is possible!  I look forward to the next Kingfisher(s) with each and every one of you!

This only scratches the surface in describing why we were so fortunate to find the answers to the questions we had about Incredible India.            

Friday, July 27, 2012

India today

India, here we come! This will be a great trip.

Thursday, July 26, 2012

The excitement is building as final preparations commence and emails start flying about tomorrow's departure and trip to India.  I wonder how many of my fellow students are unpacking previously packed bags to downgrade weights, rethink wardrobe strategies (it's going to be hot!) and cram in last minute information.
Countdown:  less than 24 hours till bus departure! 

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Company visits

Cognizant, Renault Nissan, L&T, Sankara Nethralaya and Airtel have all confirmed the company visits.  We are now juggling the dates. 
We have started planning the CXO dinner event.  We are waiting for the date to be given by the US Consul General Ms. Jennifer McIntyre so that we can finalize the event; she is the Chief Guest.  The dinner event will be held in the conference hall at the city offices of Surana and Surana, International Attorneys in Chennai.  This place is just half kilometer from the place where you are staying - The Raj Park Inn. 
You may look up Raj Park Inn at http://www.rajpark.com/
The hotel is located in TTK Road.  You can locate this road on Google Maps.
See you all soon.
News item on Renault Nissan

Here is a link to a news item on Renault Nissan in India.
http://catalogs.indiamart.com/products/helium-gas.html
How to tune in?
As you all prepare to visit India, here is a suggestion on how to start tuning into India so that the 8 days that you spend here become productive.  You may want to read the following newspapers online - The Hindu, Times of India, Economic Times, BusinessLine - so that you start identifying some key issues that are current here in India.  This way, you will find the conversations here with CXOs more productive.
Sankaran
Looking forward to everyone's posts as we explore the enchanted land of India!

Thursday, June 28, 2012

The Weekend MBA cohort eagerly awaits our trip to India, with three exciting locations this year-Chennai, Delhi, and Agra...join us as we begin to blog live from overseas on July 27.